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Wiring control panel apritech mach2 230v
#1
Hi,

I purchased this swing gate kit and need help in wiring the panel, there is a manual on ebay, but doesn't show what colour wires go to which connector number on the panel.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KIT-GATE-GATES...TM:GB:1123

I just need to know the following.
Where is Earth connection on panel?
What connector number on panel do I connect 230v input, red/live to?
What connector number on panel do I connect 230v input, Blue/Neutral to?

I have being onto supplier, but hard to get through to them in english, as there italian??

So, I hope someone can help?

Thanks in advance.
Reply
#2
Brian,

I am not familiar with this particular control panel but the following are more or less generic instructions.

Neutral should be connected to the contact that also connects to contacts 3, 8 and 11 (sometimes it is easy to find out just by looking the copper paths on the back side of the control board - failing that, use the continuity check function of a multimeter).

Keep in mind that the control board will work regardless of the way you connect phase and neutral on contacts 1 & 2. However, for safety reasons (control board relays should control the phase, in the same way switches are wired to control the phase, so that, when not activated, danger of electric shock is minimized) proper connection is important. You are absolutely right in wanting to sort this out.

The manual suggests that this particular control board is not connected to ground. That means you only have to connect ground straight to the grounding wire(s) of the operator(s).
Reply
#3
Hi Brian

On the Apitech Mac2 Panel, there is not a designated earth point on the panel, so in which case you do not earth the motors back to the board itself, what you will need to do is earth the motors back to your best means of earth, ie: you may have an isolation point for your mains before it enters the panel, in which case there should be an earth in there, if your mains into the panel has an earth, you can create a junction in the panel in which you can isolate your mains earth and your motor earths, giving you earthing through out, if your require wiring diagrams for any other part i have given a link to the manual below,

Mains In is not polarity sensitive so in can be any way around but usually its
1 = +
2 = -

What colors are provided on your motor cables in which case i can tell you where to wire them in,

http://www.dieffematic.com/documenti/MACH2230multi.pdf

I hope this helps you!



(28-10-2014, 10:51 PM)brian Wrote: Hi,

I purchased this swing gate kit and need help in wiring the panel, there is a manual on ebay, but doesn't show what colour wires go to which connector number on the panel.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KIT-GATE-GATES...TM:GB:1123

I just need to know the following.
Where is Earth connection on panel?
What connector number on panel do I connect 230v input, red/live to?
What connector number on panel do I connect 230v input, Blue/Neutral to?

I have being onto supplier, but hard to get through to them in english, as there italian??

So, I hope someone can help?

Thanks in advance.
Reply
#4
Hi,
Thanks very much for the info, it's a great help.

The wires on on motors are Black, Brown, Grey and earth wire(Green/Yellow) and there's a capacitor aswell.

Dieffematic said that Black and brown wires are motor phases and grey is neutral, this is all they would tell me! But didn't say what connector number they go to!

Also, I want to connect a keypad/Intercom and handset in house to this, would you know which connectors are used for this?

What would you rcommend for a decent voice intercom/keypad.

Thanks Again.

(29-10-2014, 11:24 AM)Sav Wrote: Hi Brian

On the Apitech Mac2 Panel, there is not a designated earth point on the panel, so in which case you do not earth the motors back to the board itself, what you will need to do is earth the motors back to your best means of earth, ie: you may have an isolation point for your mains before it enters the panel, in which case there should be an earth in there, if your mains into the panel has an earth, you can create a junction in the panel in which you can isolate your mains earth and your motor earths, giving you earthing through out, if your require wiring diagrams for any other part i have given a link to the manual below,

Mains In is not polarity sensitive so in can be any way around but usually its
1 = +
2 = -

What colors are provided on your motor cables in which case i can tell you where to wire them in,

http://www.dieffematic.com/documenti/MACH2230multi.pdf

I hope this helps you!



(28-10-2014, 10:51 PM)brian Wrote: Hi,

I purchased this swing gate kit and need help in wiring the panel, there is a manual on ebay, but doesn't show what colour wires go to which connector number on the panel.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KIT-GATE-GATES...TM:GB:1123

I just need to know the following.
Where is Earth connection on panel?
What connector number on panel do I connect 230v input, red/live to?
What connector number on panel do I connect 230v input, Blue/Neutral to?

I have being onto supplier, but hard to get through to them in english, as there italian??

So, I hope someone can help?

Thanks in advance.

(29-10-2014, 09:27 AM)thm Wrote: Great help,
Thanks very much, see my other comments!

Brian.


Brian,

I am not familiar with this particular control panel but the following are more or less generic instructions.

Neutral should be connected to the contact that also connects to contacts 3, 8 and 11 (sometimes it is easy to find out just by looking the copper paths on the back side of the control board - failing that, use the continuity check function of a multimeter).

Keep in mind that the control board will work regardless of the way you connect phase and neutral on contacts 1 & 2. However, for safety reasons (control board relays should control the phase, in the same way switches are wired to control the phase, so that, when not activated, danger of electric shock is minimized) proper connection is important. You are absolutely right in wanting to sort this out.

The manual suggests that this particular control board is not connected to ground. That means you only have to connect ground straight to the grounding wire(s) of the operator(s).
Reply
#5
If you have just 1 motor then:
#6 <- Black (or Brown) & one capacitor wire
#7 <- Brown (or Black) & other capacitor wire
#8 <- Grey

You have to test if Black should be connected to #6 or #7 (leaving Brown to be connected to the other contact).

If you have 2 motors then the primary motor (the one connected to 6, 7 & 8 as per above) should be the one that attaches to the gate leaf that can open without being obstructed by the other leaf (this would also be the leaf that should open first and close last).

The secondary motor (the motor on the other leaf) is connected as follows:
#9 <- Brown (or Black) & one capacitor wire (2nd capacitor)
#10 <- Black (or Brown) & other capacitor wire (2nd capacitor)
#11 <- Grey

Now for the check:

Move both leaves midway (half-open), engage the operators (so that the leaves can be moved by the motors) and connect power to the control board. Now, proceed, more or less, as described in 'OPENNING TIME PROGRAMMING':
1) To enter in programming press P2 for 2+ seconds - the LED L3 should turn on
2) Press PG1 and verify that the primary leaf opens (if it closes, cut power and switch black and brown wires in contacts #6 and #7, then start over)
3) Press PG2 and verify that the secondary leaf opens (if it closes, cut power and switch black and brown wires in contacts #9 and #10)
4) Stop both leaves by cutting power, before reaching their end positions.
This is not a full learning cycle - just a test to see if we have got the black and brown wires in the right contacts (using a trial-and-error procedure).

Now you have to perform the learning cycle (starting from the closed posistion and going all the way to the fully open positioon for each leaf) as described in the manual.

Tips:
1) be sure to follow the installation instructions in regards with distances of the fixed pivot point of the operator from the axis of the hinges
2) the gate should have mechanical endstops for the fully open and fully closed positions of each leaf (limiting the opening angle to the maximum one prescribed for the installation geometry you chose)
Reply
#6
(29-10-2014, 08:51 PM)thm Wrote: Yes I have two motors, I will be doing this on saturday, so this is very helpful. The other thing is the fob, do I need to do anything with this? Or will this work when I programme the gates as below?

Would you know which connectors are used for intercom/keypad?

Thanks Again for your help?
Brian.
If you have just 1 motor then:
#6 <- Black (or Brown) & one capacitor wire
#7 <- Brown (or Black) & other capacitor wire
#8 <- Grey

You have to test if Black should be connected to #6 or #7 (leaving Brown to be connected to the other contact).

If you have 2 motors then the primary motor (the one connected to 6, 7 & 8 as per above) should be the one that attaches to the gate leaf that can open without being obstructed by the other leaf (this would also be the leaf that should open first and close last).

The secondary motor (the motor on the other leaf) is connected as follows:
#9 <- Brown (or Black) & one capacitor wire (2nd capacitor)
#10 <- Black (or Brown) & other capacitor wire (2nd capacitor)
#11 <- Grey

Now for the check:

Move both leaves midway (half-open), engage the operators (so that the leaves can be moved by the motors) and connect power to the control board. Now, proceed, more or less, as described in 'OPENNING TIME PROGRAMMING':
1) To enter in programming press P2 for 2+ seconds - the LED L3 should turn on
2) Press PG1 and verify that the primary leaf opens (if it closes, cut power and switch black and brown wires in contacts #6 and #7, then start over)
3) Press PG2 and verify that the secondary leaf opens (if it closes, cut power and switch black and brown wires in contacts #9 and #10)
4) Stop both leaves by cutting power, before reaching their end positions.
This is not a full learning cycle - just a test to see if we have got the black and brown wires in the right contacts (using a trial-and-error procedure).

Now you have to perform the learning cycle (starting from the closed posistion and going all the way to the fully open positioon for each leaf) as described in the manual.

Tips:
1) be sure to follow the installation instructions in regards with distances of the fixed pivot point of the operator from the axis of the hinges
2) the gate should have mechanical endstops for the fully open and fully closed positions of each leaf (limiting the opening angle to the maximum one prescribed for the installation geometry you chose)
Reply
#7
Brian,

there is a table in the installation manual that lists the various contacts.

Some of them are marked as NC (that means Normally Closed or that the respective contacts should make contact) and are generally safety devices like photocells. There should be a piece of wire (jumper) between the two contacts of each NC pair to short-circuit them, unless of course you have actually installed the respective safety device (which you should leave for the end of the installation).

The ones marked NO are for movement command devices (pushbuttons etc). For example, to command the gate to move (open or close) you should briefly (in the order of 1 sec) make contact between #23 and #24.

The NC and NO are "dry contacts" meaning you should not provide your own voltage to them or you may damage the board. The board itself monitors those contacts and can tell when there is circuit continuity or not (when contact is made or broken) and uses their state as a signal for how to behave. This is especially important in case of intercoms and access-control devices that may provide their own voltage (say 12VDC) as output. In these cases, one has to use an intermediate relay that gets activated by the voltage provided by the intercom and, in turn, closes the dry contact of the board.

#23 and #24 are the contacts you are looking for connecting your intercom but, as described above, the connection should be voltage-free.

Keep in mind that commanding a gate without having visual contact with it may be hazardous: for example, you might accidentally command it to close when already open. The typical solution is to activate automatic closing (which makes proper installation of safety photocells all the more important) and program the pushbutton command as an OPEN-only command. The later, unfortunately, doesn't look like it is supported by your control board, so you should set DIP-switch 2 to ON (activate residential function) and either install the pushbutton/intercom next to a window overlooking the gate or install a camera watching the gate area.

Remotes may be per-programmed or not. In either case, the manual describes the procedure to memorize them to the board, so it shouldn't bother you too much.
Reply
#8
(30-10-2014, 11:44 AM)thm Wrote: Appreciate all the help, going to do this ate the weekend, will let you know how I get on.

Brian,

there is a table in the installation manual that lists the various contacts.

Some of them are marked as NC (that means Normally Closed or that the respective contacts should make contact) and are generally safety devices like photocells. There should be a piece of wire (jumper) between the two contacts of each NC pair to short-circuit them, unless of course you have actually installed the respective safety device (which you should leave for the end of the installation).

The ones marked NO are for movement command devices (pushbuttons etc). For example, to command the gate to move (open or close) you should briefly (in the order of 1 sec) make contact between #23 and #24.

The NC and NO are "dry contacts" meaning you should not provide your own voltage to them or you may damage the board. The board itself monitors those contacts and can tell when there is circuit continuity or not (when contact is made or broken) and uses their state as a signal for how to behave. This is especially important in case of intercoms and access-control devices that may provide their own voltage (say 12VDC) as output. In these cases, one has to use an intermediate relay that gets activated by the voltage provided by the intercom and, in turn, closes the dry contact of the board.

#23 and #24 are the contacts you are looking for connecting your intercom but, as described above, the connection should be voltage-free.

Keep in mind that commanding a gate without having visual contact with it may be hazardous: for example, you might accidentally command it to close when already open. The typical solution is to activate automatic closing (which makes proper installation of safety photocells all the more important) and program the pushbutton command as an OPEN-only command. The later, unfortunately, doesn't look like it is supported by your control board, so you should set DIP-switch 2 to ON (activate residential function) and either install the pushbutton/intercom next to a window overlooking the gate or install a camera watching the gate area.

Remotes may be per-programmed or not. In either case, the manual describes the procedure to memorize them to the board, so it shouldn't bother you too much.
Reply
#9
(29-10-2014, 09:27 AM)thm Wrote: Can you tell me how to check with a continuity meter for positive and neutral on the circuit board, so I can be sure of connecting live and neutral to correct connectors on the panel ( 1 or 2 ).

If you can tell me how, that would be a great help, as I am a bit afraid to connect these unless I know for sure?

Thanks.

Brian,

I am not familiar with this particular control panel but the following are more or less generic instructions.

Neutral should be connected to the contact that also connects to contacts 3, 8 and 11 (sometimes it is easy to find out just by looking the copper paths on the back side of the control board - failing that, use the continuity check function of a multimeter).

Keep in mind that the control board will work regardless of the way you connect phase and neutral on contacts 1 & 2. However, for safety reasons (control board relays should control the phase, in the same way switches are wired to control the phase, so that, when not activated, danger of electric shock is minimized) proper connection is important. You are absolutely right in wanting to sort this out.

The manual suggests that this particular control board is not connected to ground. That means you only have to connect ground straight to the grounding wire(s) of the operator(s).
Reply
#10
Brian,

Sav, already answered that: 1 is Live and 2 is Neutral (and even if you connect them the other way round no harm will be done to your automation - this is just a matter of proper installation).
Reply


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